Cappadocia was one of the stops on our sabbatical that we were most looking forward to. Kathleen's interest was focused on the unique place it has in Christian history. She has been interested in the Cappadocian Church Fathers, especially Gregory of Nyssa, whereas I was looking forward to the beauty of the unusual rock formations. What neither of us expected was how overwhelmingly beautiful the entire landscape is, and how it feels like a place of refuge.
We had precious little time to walk alone, or walk together in silence, just the two of us, apart from the group we are travelling with - but when we did, we understood completely why from the second century onward Christian communities, both monastic and lay, had taken refuge here. The dozens of hidden valleys, the womb-like caves offering warmth in winter and cool in summer, the empty landscape filled with spirit and pointing to God, have given shelter, comfort, and inspiration to both Christians and Muslims.
The Christian churches that have been preserved inside these caves with their "fairy chimneys" contain layers of religious art, some of it 1200 years old, covered over with another layer of images a thousand years old. Outside these churches, one valley has a mosque built jnto the mountainside, now unused and part of the world heritage site, but active up until the 1950's. Human beings have been at home here for thousands of years, and left the marks of their faith on the walls. We felt at home too, after just a day. We could easily spend many more days here, exploring many more valleys, finding refuge in every one.
Location:Cappadocia, Istanbul
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