At the Sea of Galilee

Hiking the Jesus Trail was a pilgrimage that ends at the Sea of Galilee and Capernaum, which was the home base for much of Jesus' ministry. I had anticipated this part of the trip to be completely commercialized, with signs pointing towards real or imagined places of Jesus ministry. I expected an almost Disney-land type commercialism, i.e., "Jesus slept here!!" Thankfully, there was nothing of the kind. Beginning at the place where Jesus "may" have preached his famous Sermon in the Mount, we started walking what's called the Pilgrims' Walkway to Capernaum, a once thriving fishing village of 15,000 but now is only a well maintained site of ruins, a contemporary church, and a destination for tourists and pilgrims.

The Pilgrim's Walkway was paved with stones, and runs alongside the Sea of Galilee. Between the sidewalk and the sea there were no falafel stands or souvenir shops; just agricultural land and a nature preserve housing birds, plants and small trees. The walk from the Mount of Beatitudes to Capurnum took an easy half hour and for almost the entire walk we were the only two on the path. As tour buses roared past us on the highway above, we strolled in peace and quiet along the sea that was so much a part of Jesus' ministry. It is here where he called Simon Peter and Andrew to be his disciples; here where he healed and preached and taught, here around this Sea is where he fed the five thousand. As we walked, I began to read out loud the Beatitudes:

Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven;
Blessed are those who mourn, for they shall be comforted....


Although the day was heavy with cloud cover, the sun broke through the clouds to illumine, and...I kid you not...a couple of fishing boats that were on the lake. For a moment we could have been transported back to Jesus time, hearing nothing but the wind and seeing only two lone fisherman, checking their nets. I felt closer to the person and story of Jesus there, on that simple walk to Capurnum than I had in Jerusalem or in any of the other places where Jesus was said to be.


Arriving at Capernaum, we found a park-like setting, remains of a synagogue built on the same synagogue site where Jesus must have prayed, and a surprisingly beautiful contemporary church constructed over ruins of a home from Jesus' time. We found ourselves alone in the church, gazing past the altar at the Sea Of Galilee, through the clear windows behind it, and had a chance to meditate and pray. Our Jesus Trail hike was complete, for I had met Him. Where. Not in any of the churches commemorating his miracles. it was on the Pilgrim's Walkway, while reading the words he spoke and seeing the sights that he too, must have seen. -- submitted by Kathleen Rolenz

Location:Capurnum